Scarcity of yarn leaves handloom weavers in a bind

The major handloom hubs of Andhra Pradesh — Mangalagiri, Cheerala and Pedana — are struggling to get access to the finest quality of the yarn variety

The handloom workers weaving exquisite sarees and fabric with the 60’s FHCR yarn variety have been badly hit and forced to lose foreign export potential for their products woven in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana. 

The major handloom hubs of Andhra Pradesh — Mangalagiri, Cheerala and Pedana — are struggling to get access to the finest quality of the yarn variety. The handloom sector needs the ‘Hank’ yarn to weave sarees and ‘Warf’ for fabric. 

Kerala’s Kannur and Tamil Nadu’s Coimbatore from where the yarn varieties can be procured only in the ‘Cone’ format, which is only meant for power-loom sector. On the other hand, the quality arguably does not match to what was produced in Andhra Pradesh a few years ago. Lack of yarns is forcing the weavers to reject exports orders.

“Hindupur-based Super Spinning Mill was the only unit in Andhra Pradesh to produce 60’s yarn variety. It has also stopped production. We have rejected many orders from the U.S.. We have also stopped supply of Kimonos to Japan. ”Pitchuka Srinivas Handloom weaver from Pedana

“We have not been able to accept the orders from the U.S. and Japan for the fabric woven with the 60’s FHCR yarn. We have already rejected many orders for the fabric from the US. The Hindupur-based Super Spinning Mill was the only unit in Andhra Pradesh to produce the organic and non-organic 60’s yarn variety. In the recent years, it has also stopped production of the variety,” say Pitchuka Srinivas from Pedana, who exports handloom fabric and Kalamkari products to Europe, the U.S. and Asia. 

The fabric woven with the 60’s yarn is used to design Kimono, a traditional wedding dress used in many Asian countries including Japan. “We have stopped supply of Kimonos to Japan,” says Mr. Srinivas. In the U.S., the fabric woven with the 60’s yarn is used for a range of textile products—Pallazo, Kuftans and Duvet covers, he explains.