Red Lilies, Water Birds presents a rich tapestry of Indian history through its weaves

Red Lilies, Water Birds presents a rich tapestry of Indian history through its weaves

A sari can either be the most conservative or revealing of garments and the Red Lilies, Water Birds — The Saree in Nine Stories is a revelation on this piece of clothing.

The picturesque title of this exhibition, Red Lilies, Water Birds is derived from Muthollayiram (Red Lilies, Frightened Birds), an anthology of Tamil classical poems from the medieval era. Presented by the Registry of Sarees, a Bengaluru-based research and study center helmed by Ahalya Matthan, the 81 saris on display are not being showcased for their aesthetics alone, this native piece of clothing traces the socio-economic course of the nation over the past century.

The first iteration by the Registry of Sarees titled Meanings, Metaphor – Handspun and Handwoven in the 21st Century was showcased last year. The second, which is currently underway, tells this tale of the “saree in nine stories”.

“When we use the term sari, it implies yardage and could include a turban or dhoti, too. Any unstitched length of fabric fits the bill,” says Aayushi Jain, a member of the curatorial team for Red Lilies, Water Birds.

This is their second iteration, says Aayushi, adding that the present narrative shows how the sari as an identity was shaped by Western developments.

Structured into different sections, the exhibit shows how industrial development in Europe slowly but steadily stunted the growth of the weaving community by diminishing the demand for their wares. As a former British colony, English, Dutch and Portuguese influences are to be expected; however, Red Lilies opens with three saris woven in Austria, pinpointing the far reach of the Industrial Revolution.

Ironically, India, which was the prime producer of saris became a marketplace for European powers who were producing saris and selling them in India. While these textiles appealed to Indian tastes, they were created with no frame of reference. For instance, the width would vary or they would be manufactured without a pallu (the decorative, free-falling end of a sari).