Chef Priyam Chatterjee shows French cuisine with a touch of Indian

Chef Priyam Chatterjee, the first Indian chef honoured with Chevalier de l’Ordre du Mérite Agricole, innovates French cuisine with Indian flavours

Chef Priyam Chatterjee does not believe in holding back, be it about his ex or a tip to garnish a risotto. The first Indian chef to be honoured with the Chevalier de l’Ordre du Mérite Agricole (2019), Priyam was in Hyderabad for a masterclass on modern French cuisine at The Leela, Hyderabad. He is also the culinary genius behind Roia-Singapore’s Michelin Guide 2024.

As he adds the final garnish of green apple strips to the ceviche made with hamachi, he says that you can replace the green apple with star fruit or any tart fruit of your choice. Will jolphai (Indian olive) do, I ask. He says, “Why not? Even tender chalta (elephant apple) strips and amra (hog plum) are great options.” 

Will the French squirm on their seats with this blatant Indianisation of their revered cuisine? Priyam adds, “I have served the French three-star chefs with albino-cured macher jhol and they were blowing kisses to me for the innovation. This was the food that also got me my knighthood. Food is all about understanding where to put what, just like a perfect Lego block. After tasting my food, the chefs suggested that I should work to introduce Indian spices into French food and make it my identity.”

Priyam loves to experiment with Indian seasonal herbs and vegetables. He explains the reason,, “It is all about sustainability and flavour relativity. The freshness of locally sourced vegetables is always the best.” This conviction is reflected in the tattoos of vegetables on his arm, right up to his shoulder. “Begun, aloo and phulgobi (brinjal, potato, cauliflower) et al,” he laughs.

Priyam started his career in Hyderabad as a commi 2 chef under Chef Jean-Claude Fugier at Park Hyatt in 2013, displaying his hunger to learn and readiness to work at whatever time he was called. Priyam says Jean’s advice to him was: “Know the French people first, you will learn their food. I am very grateful for what he taught me in the kitchen and about learning. He constantly reminded us that a chef’s work is not limited to the kitchen. Coming from a working-class — my mother raised me — I had to make it work as payback for my mother’s hard work. So, whenever he summoned me, I didn’t care to see the time or duty chart, I was present. He also introduced me to the Michelin guide and what it is all about.” 

Priyam, who has worked with French cuisine for over 15 years, explains that while the Michelin looks like a guide on the face of it, in reality there is a lot more; it talks about legacy, purity and feelings.

“Rishabh Sealwas a colleague and is my business partner now. He told me that this year we (Roia) won’t get a Michelin[the restaurant had started very late], but we will be on the guide. Now do I cook to get a Michelin star? No, I cook for the satisfaction that I get from seeing the smile of appreciation on my diner’s face,” he says.