The whole story behind JHOL Bangkok

Jhol Coastal Indian cuisine from Bangkok is doing a special pop-up at Ru Hyderabad

Jhol is a word used to describe a curry. Anirban Nandi and chef-restaurateur-author Hari Nayak started an Indian restaurant called JHOL in Bangkok that, paradoxically, excludes typical Indian curries such as butter chicken, dal makhani, paneer butter masala and butter naan.

Jhol, according to Anirban, could be any curry in Bengali and “we wanted to stand out by highlighting food from the coastal region of India, from the east to the south.”

Currently, Anirban and two of Jhol’s best hands, Chef Gaurav Gupta and Chef Emteyaz Ali, are in Hyderabad for a pop-up at Ru Hyderabad.

Anirban says, “Jhol focusses on regional coastal Indian. We decided on an a la carte menu that showcases dishes from Chef Hari’s hometown, Mangaluru, and from the places we travelled to and enjoyed Indian regional coastal cuisine. This is why instead of a tangri kebab we have dishes like Kundapura ghee roast chicken, Kerala mutton roast, Daab chingri, Sol kadi ceviche, Chili pepper crab with egg appam and so on. To replace the naans and kulchas, we offer an array of coastal breads such as appams, kallappams, tatte idli, neer dosa etc. Surprisingly, Bangkok embraced this new dimension of food. To date, Jhol is a hub for local Thais who enjoy the diversity of our beautiful cuisine.”

Anirban and Hari have worked together throughout their careers in hospitality on various projects and to open a restaurant in Nairobi. “Bangkok was not even in our plan. Then, out of the blue, as we discussed the food of coastal India, we thought why not in Bangkok which attracts food lovers from across the world. Our investors instantly gave us the go-ahead. We started work on Jhol in 2019 and it opened in January 2020.”

Anirban adds, “When Bangkok was back in the game after surviving COVID-19, we made it to the Michelin guide and 50 best discovery list in the category of stylish, family-friendly, brasserie-style dining experience that can seat 40-50 guests. With Hari behind the menu, we highlight fresh interpretations of coastal Indian cuisine and redefine the perception of Indian food. Our other focus is craft cocktails, using seasonal and local ingredients and an selection of natural wines.”

What made Jhol click with the locals of Bangkok? According to Anirban, it is the familiarity of flavours such as raw mango and coconut milk, the hotness from spices like ginger, pepper etc.