Tangaliya weaving finds new life in Gujarat — with a boost from Brad Pitt

In Surendranagar, Gujarat, where only a handful of families continue to practise tangaliya weaving, we visit artisanal communities working with brands like Jaypore to revive the intricate craft for contemporary wardrobes

Jahabhai with his latest collection of saris | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

Jahabhai Laxmanbhai Rathod is certain he will not lose his job to a machine.

“My work is handmade and it will continue to be done that way,” says Jahabhai, who has been creating tangaliya weaves for 48 years. Made on looms, the craft is known for its trademark dots or danas which form patterns that range from peacock and navagraha to the more modern deer and flowers. Earlier, it was typically done on cotton and wool, with handmade yarn made from sheep’s wool. Now mill-made yarn is used. And the fabric extends to silk, khadi, eri silk and kala cotton.

“I was 15 when I started working with tangaliya. My father, his father and ancestors have been doing this for more than 700 years. My 32-year-old son Baldev has now joined in,” says the 63-year-old.

I am in Surendranagar district in Gujarat, known for its tangaliya weaves, with the Jaypore team, to learn more about the craft, which is primarily practised by the Dangasiya community. We visit the village of Vastadi first. Narrow alleys dotted with cows lead us to Jahabhai’s house.

An artisanal lifestyle brand, Jaypore works with Jahabhai and his weavers for tangaliya woven kurtas and pants that are retailed out of its stores and website. For the forthcoming season the brand is exploring tangaliya saris, as part of its ongoing effort to expand the craft into new product categories. Manu Gupta, vice president and brand head, Jaypore, says the brand placed its first order with this weaving community in 2025, commissioning 100-plus pieces. He adds that it is important to them that the narrative around tangaliya also highlights the people, traditions, and cultural legacy that sustain it.