A veritable bong feast at this new restaurant in Visakhapatnam

Amantran, a new restaurant at Daba Gardens in Visakhapatnam, is a place to savour homely Bengali meals

Visakhapatnam, with its thriving Bengali population, has a disproportionately low presence of restaurants serving authentic Bengali food. For Amaresh Poddar, this came as an opportunity to showcase the best of his hometown’s cuisine through his new restaurant Amantran at Daba Gardens.

True to the essence of its name, Amantran (meaning invitation) has a simple, homely feel with a modest setting. This eatery is more than just a place to savour traditional Bengali cuisine; it is a portal to the rich culinary heritage and warm hospitality of West Bengal. As I step into the restaurant for lunch, the aroma of spices and the sound of bubbling curries fill the air.

The decor is basic – rows of chairs and tables placed along the rectangular hall. The staff is courteous and service is quick. The menu is a quick journey through Bengali cuisine’s diverse offerings - from the fragrant sorshe rui (mustard fish) steeped in a mustard gravy, malai chingri (a creamy prawn curry) to the hearty kosha mangsho, a slow-cooked mutton curry that melts in your mouth.

To savour the authentic delicacies of Bengal, it is best to go with a thali (meal) which has vegetarian and non-vegetarian options. The steaming rice is served with a liberal dash of ghee drizzled over it. The moong dal is accompanied with aloo posto (potato with poppy seeds) and potol and begun bhaja. One of the highlights is the Bengali fish curry or machher jhol, made with fresh catch from the local market. The flavors of mustard seeds, green chilies and turmeric leave a tantalising aftertaste. And of course, no Bengali meal is complete without the tomato chutney and a serving of rosogolla.

Amaresh, a native of Kolkata, moved to Visakhapatnam in 2016 and worked as a manager in two restaurants, including another Bengali eatery in the city. During the pandemic he moved back to his hometown, but his heart yearned to return to the City of Destiny where he had forged many bonds with the Bengali community. When he came back last year, he saw that the Bengali restaurant where he worked had scaled down its business and wrapped up the second eatery where he was the manager. That is when he decided to start a place of his own and the staff who used to work with Amaresh earlier joined him in his venture.

Amantran, which opened its doors earlier this month, is supported by a team of eight, who have the rich culinary expertise to bring the authentic essence of Bengali food.

“We are working on a special festive menu for Durga Puja. And of course, there are the Sunday specials like chicken biryani in Bengali style,” says Amaresh, who has a passion for arm-wrestling and finished as a runner-up at the 1986 World Armwrestling Federation’s World Championship. After a busy day at the restaurant, Amaresh is often seen enjoying a friendly game with his staff and friends.