Nilgiris trifle pudding throws light on biodiversity at this food festival in Chennai

Experience the Nilgiris Trifle pudding and Western Ghats challenges at Amethyst's Wild Garden Cafe food festival in Chennai till April 19

When you try the Nilgiris trifle pudding at Amethyst’s Wild Garden Cafe, you can also update yourself on the challenges of the Western Ghats. In association with The Kodai Chronicle Trust and Wild Garden Cafe, Amethyst, food historian Rakesh Raghunathan has curated a two-week food festival showcasing the produce of the Western Ghats. The Kodai Chronicle (TKC), an eco-publication based in the Western Ghats, is an independent, community-driven monthly publication that aims to showcase the biodiversity of the landscape it is set in, explore the challenges it faces and encourage community stewardship. “We are all set to launch The Sky Island, a publication which will focus on climate change and its impact on the Western Ghats,” says Rajni George, editor-in-chief, The Kodai Chronicle.

“Ancient Tamil texts mention how the landscape is divided into five categories such as the Kurinji (mountainous terrain), Mullai (forests), Marutham (cultivated lands), Neithal (coastal region) and Paalai (arid, dry lands),” says Rakesh Raghunathan, explaining why they called the festival Kurunji.

A food festival can be a powerful way to illustrate the riches of the region. The Nilgiris and Palani Hills grow fruits such as oranges, bananas, plums, avocados and tree tomatoes; vegetables like carrots, cauliflowers and beetroot; tea; coffee; and spices like cardamom and pepper. Promoting the produce from this region is an effective way to support cultural traditions and sustainable agriculture. Describing how he put together the menu, Rakesh says “I have used tree tomatoes, smoked hill garlic, bamboo rice, millets and certain varieties of roots and tubers from the region I have also recreated the Kodai molaga bajji for the festival”.

Highlighting local ingredients, there is potato and cheddar cheese soup, Nilagiri mutton soup and a soup made using fresh turmeric with chicken dumplings. All major ingredients are sourced from the region which lends every dish a distinctive aroma and flavour. Stuffed mushroom casserole made using mushrooms sourced from the forests of Kodai, and potato and peas gratin, served for mains under the vegetarain section. For the non-vegetarians, there is a herbed chicken and bamboo rice bake.

The Kodai Buddha bowl, a nourishing blend of produce from Kodaikanal, topped with tangy plum-based vinaigrette and the herb fried chicken are must trys. The mutton momos and the chefs version of Kodai molaga bajji were the big hit. “Molaga bajji is an iconic street food of Kodaikanal and, I have tweaked it by using a mix of rice flour and besan for coating the bajji and for filling I have used mashed potato infused with herbs and Kodai cheese,” says Rakesh.

The Kodai Buddha bowl, a nourishing blend of produce from Kodaikanal, topped with tangy plum-based vinaigrette and the herb fried chicken are must trys. The mutton momos and the chefs version of Kodai molaga bajji were the big hit. “Molaga bajji is an iconic street food of Kodaikanal and, I have tweaked it by using a mix of rice flour and besan for coating the bajji and for filling I have used mashed potato infused with herbs and Kodai cheese,” says Rakesh.

Rakesh has deconstructed the famous Palani prasadam offered at the Murugan temple in the Palani hills for this menu. “I have developed this sacred prasadam using honey, Thinai (foxtail millet) and other local ingredients,” he says. End with the Nilgiris trifle pudding, masala chai tres leches and Kodai banana churros.