Kalaripayattu to Raja Ravi Varma... this Kochi clothing brand makes wearable art inspired by facets of Kerala

House of Urmi: Architect Anjali Ashok's wearable art brand tells powerful stories through hand-painted, digitally-printed garments.

With every print she creates, architect-turned-designer Anjali Ashok tells a story. “I am not just selling a piece of clothing. Each print is a story that resonates on a personal level with the wearer,” she says, discussing her clothing brand, House of Urmi. She adds that the garments are “hand-painted and digitally-printed wearable art”. 

Urmi is a coiling sword in Malayalam used in kalaripayattu. Anjali says she named the label after it as it “captures the essence of the Malabar. I wanted to bring powerful stories from the region through the brand and was looking for a name that resonated power. Urmi represents home, culture and history”.

Although she has been trained as an architect, her heart was in the visual arts, says Anjali. “Even while I was studying, my approach was art-oriented. We had visual art classes which I was interested in.” Finding a niche space, she turned artist.

By the time she launched House of Urmi, she had established herself as a freelance artist via her Instagram handle, on which she customises portraits. She started the page while in her fifth year at the KMEA Architecture College, Kuzhivelypady, Kochi. Today, after five years, she has more than 43K followers. “I started drawing portraits while I was in college. It was very organic and unplanned…it just happened,” Anjali says.

The brand’s prints and iconography use typical Kerala references such as theyyam and kalaripayattu. It is distinctly contemporary with elements such as bold stripes or vivid flowers juxtaposed with the prints. Rather than replicate, she gives the motifs her personal, individualistic spin. The prints tell their charming stories, the sensibility is distinctly pop in terms of the palette and design elements such as tiny red hearts.  

Since she is not a trained designer, her focus is on the prints rather than the silhouette. Hence, mostly, of the garments are gender neutral shirts, vests, kaftans, co-ords, jackets, and tunics. However, some come with bralettes in the same print, adapted for those who prefer a feminine take. “I am not too into the design part so I keep them simple, prints are my focus,” says Anjali, adding that she deliberates over each print, some replete with details, reminiscent of miniature paintings. 

For example the Varambu (boundary or a short ridge in Malayalam) collection, launched in 2023, is packed with minute details of vegetation, people and life. The illustration features theyyam, audiences and other elements. “I like minute detailing,” she explains. An example of her attention to details is the fragrance of oudh when a House of Urmi package is opened. “My clients notice it and have commented on it,” smiles the curly-haired designer.