In Frames | Sungudi shimmer

A look into the process behind Madurai's traditional tie-dye Sungudi saris, perfected by Saurashtrians.

Folklore tells of two handloom weavers who were resting on the banks of the Vaigai river. Inspired by the star-spangled night sky, they invented the tie-and-dye motif that has now become synonymous with Madurai. This signature styling on traditional cotton saris was awarded the GI tag on December 12, 2005.

Perfected by the Saurashtrian community that had migrated from Gujarat to Madurai in the 17th century, these iconic saris reveal the artistic and exquisite talent of the weaver.

On a base cloth mostly woven with a zari border, artisans painstakingly hand-knot the required patterns. This is then dyed in various shades. Later, the knots are untied and after a final wash to remove excess dye, it is starched and left to dry in the sun. It is then that the sari reveals an intricate design, with some bearing more than 15,000 quirky white dots.

Now, these breathable garments are a must-have in the wardrobes of both the young and the old. For a cotton sari to transform into a sungudi, it takes more than 15 days.

With prices ranging from Rs. 500 to even Rs. 20,000 depending on the thread count, this timeless handloom art needs the much-needed nudge to be showcased in international fashion shows.

Text by Beulah Rose