All eyes on the arena: Alanganallur prepares for JallikattuPremium

Alanganallur near Madurai prepares to welcome visitors from India and abroad to witness the famed jallikattu

S Kittu pulls up his shirt to reveal a scar that runs down his torso. A particularly irate bull tore through his skin one winter morning at a jallikattu tournament in the year 2000. “I was almost killed,” recalls the 43-year-old bull tamer, who has now retired. Standing under a tree near the vaadivasal at Alanganallur, through which bulls will charge forth in less than ten days, he recalls the good old days with relish. The ceremonial pandal kaal, a bamboo pole with flowers tied atop it, has been erected in the village, signifying the start of the festival.

Every year, thousands of people from across the world converge during Pongal season at Alanganallur and nearby Palamedu to witness the ancient Tamil sport that is said to have existed from as early as the Sangam period. Alanganallur, especially, is of particular interest internationally, since the jallikattu event in the village is being sponsored by the Tamil Nadu Tourism Department. “Our department has a permanent gallery there for tourists from abroad,” says District Tourism Officer SM Sri Balamurugan, adding that every year, they get 200 visitors from Spain, Germany, Israel, US, Singapore, Malaysia, and Japan. “We have been getting a lot of enquiries this year too,” he adds.

While the Tourism Department has started making arrangements, at Alanganallur, the bulls know it is time.

“Watch it, he charges,” warns K Ramesh, as he walks Vinayagam, a bulky deep-brown Kangeyam bull. It is almost dusk, and most owners take their bulls for a walk to work their muscles. Vinayagam has completed its two-kilometre walk for the evening, and is on its way back home. As jallikattu nears, the bulls’ diet gets a boost, and they are taken on swims twice a week. “They are pumped up with energy and spirit,” says S Vijay, who helps in Vinayagam’s care. So are the people of Alanganallur.

At every turn, the word is jallikattu. The village takes pride in the sport, preparing to welcome an endless sea of people. K Sundari does her bit by serving free meals to anyone who walks into her home. Her house is located along the route bulls trot by, and she cooks a mammoth feast of rice, chicken curry, sambar, and rasam. “I usually cook for my large extended family that visits us during the festival,” says the 45-year-old, whose two sons are bull tamers.

She then started offering food to visitors who passed by. “I’ve been cooking for them for five years now,” she says. Sundari does not sleep during the night before the festival. “I start chopping tomatoes and onions for the kozhambu a day before,” she says. It’s a lot of work, but she doesn’t mind. “My sons are well-fed by the locals wherever they go to participate in jallikattu. This is my way of returning the favour,” she says.

Now is when experienced tamers such as Kittu are busy passing on tips to the younger men. Kittu recalls the defining moments of his life, most of which are connected to jallikattu. “In the year 2000, I caught 30 bulls,” he remembers. A young woman — not even 17 years old at the time — was watching his every move from afar. Two weeks later, she came looking for him at Alanganallur. “I noticed her whispering to her friends, pointing to me as I went past her,” says Kittu, who later walked up to talk to her.