When the streets at Madurai come alive with iftar flavours

Experience the vibrant iftar scene in Madurai, where delicious street food delights come alive during Ramzan evenings.

Evenings at Mahaboopalayam in Madurai come alive with people young and old during Ramzan, the Islamic holy month of fasting. When the sun goes down, the smell of fried vadas, crisp samosas, and spicy chicken fills the streets. There are vendors near the Mahaboobpalayam Mosque who sell iftar specials on trays, some of which are fried in hot, sizzling oil. The place is busy with people enjoying the food, and others getting parcels for home. “In the earlier days, we would break our fast with nombu kanji. It is healthy and easy to digest,” says Abuthahir, who is from the neighbourhood. “But over time, especially among the younger generation, there has been a shift towards tastier, fried snacks. That’s how these iftar stalls with a variety of items have become popular now.”

A view of Masjid Mahaboopalayam Mosque at Madurai. | Photo Credit: G. Moorthy

For the past five years, B Thasleema and her husband, G Batcha, have been selling kari vadas in Mahaboopalayam. As Batcha stands over a large kadai, frying batch after batch, the snacks vanish almost as quickly. He is fondly known as ‘Chicken Badsha’ for the distinct flavour he brings to his kari vadas.

G. Batcha frying crispy golden kari vadas at Mahaboopalayam, Madurai. | Photo Credit: G. MOORTHY

“Our day begins in the morning,” says Thasleema. “We finely grind the meat into keema consistency and then mix it with the batter for the vadas. By 4pm, we open the stall, and start frying until 6pm. We sell each piece for ₹5.”

Hot crispy chicken samosas and kari vadas kept for sale at Mahaboopalayam, Madurai. | Photo Credit: G. MOORTHY