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Not just biryani: Discovering the delicate flavours of Bohra cuisine

Not just biryani: Discovering the delicate flavours of Bohra cuisine

The Hindu
Wednesday, March 12, 2025 10:30:03 AM UTC

Experience Bohra cuisine at the Bohra Food Fest at Bidri in Marriott in Hyderabad

Start with a pinch of salt, followed by sweet, buttery, nutty rice — this is how home chef Alifya Amreliwala suggests beginning a Bohra meal. Along with her husband, Aziz, she is hosting the Bohra Food Fest at Bidri, Marriott Hotel and Convention Centre. Based in Mumbai, the couple has been sharing Bohra cuisine with food lovers for several years. Alifya started a humble food business in 2016.

“We started small, cooking from home,” says Alifya. “Within a year, we were doing pop-ups in Mumbai. As word spread, we started receiving invitations from different states. We love introducing people to Bohra cuisine and explaining its nuances wherever we go.”

Bohra cuisine is a rich blend of Persian, Gujarati, and Mughlai influences. While it carries Gujarati elements, it is not overly sweet — even the desserts curated by the duo are balanced in flavour.

The festival, running until March 17, offers both a thali and an à la carte menu. The thali covers about 60% of the à la carte offerings and is a generous spread. “Thalis allow diners to sample a variety of dishes in one go,” says Aziz.

Talking about their entrepreneurial journey, Alifya shares, “I always loved cooking and learned a bit from my mother. After marriage, I picked up more skills, especially from my mother-in-law. Watching her immersed in recipes and ingredients, I expressed my interest in learning too. Luckily, Aziz shared my passion for cooking, though he wasn’t encouraged to pursue it because ‘it’s not a man’s job.’

While Aziz managed the family business, I started catering within the neighbourhood. After my father-in-law passed away and the business no longer required Aziz’s constant presence, he began helping me. With his support, we expanded our menu, started hosting pop-ups, and took on larger catering projects. Since we both love food, it’s incredibly fulfilling when people taste our dishes and say, ‘this is different.’”

The Bohra meal begins with gol pani, a welcome drink made with jaggery and sabja seeds. Among the starters, the daba chicken — a pie-shaped seekh kebab — stood out. The signature mutton keema patties were another highlight. For vegetarians, the Russian cutlet — a crispy, deep-fried mix of potatoes, carrots, and spices — was a must-try.

Read full story on The Hindu
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