Kochi designers use memories, motifs and gold for their Onam collections

Modern meets traditional Kerala handloom saris for Onam, with quirky elements, applique motifs, and contemporary silhouettes.

Rouka by Sreejith’s collection of Kerala handloom saris for Onam are a bit whimsy, quirky and bring in a whole lot of nostalgia. The collection, says designer Sreejith Jeevan, as the answer to the question: What is the Onam of now? “This connection to our roots is also sprinkled with who we are now.”

“Onam is a search for home — for a sadya that takes you back to childhood; for the comfortable wrap of a kasavu that connects with your grandmother; for that feeling of being one among a closely knit family even when you know it’s through a Whatsapp call.” The designer’s take on the Kerala sari for the festivities is modern meets traditional, “a kasavu that can multitask into our quirky lives of today.” Some of the saris, handwoven at Chendamangalam, have applique motifs derived from celebrations and kuruthola (decor made of woven fronds of coconut palms), indigenous flora and of course the signature Rouka kasavu with its stripes, checks and stunning variations. The designer has kept to the ivory of the Kerala handloom while adding in other elements.

Prices start at ₹3,995; available at the Rouka store and shoprouka.com

Poornima Indrajith has pieced together snatches of people’s Onam memories including her own for her collection, Onam’24. “Onam for me means chips. Among the many memories of Onams past, the chip memory is the brightest,” she adds. She got her team to sketch their favourite Onam memories and they appear as motifs, colours and themes in Pranaah’s Onam ‘24. This includes banana chips, olapeepi (flutes made of palm fronds), dragonflies and flowers to mention a few.

While the silhouettes and styling veer towards the contemporary, the garments are still rooted in tradition, says Poornima. A unisex shirt in the collection, for instance, is in traditional cream, with a slender grey border with a smattering of chips doodled in black on the back. 

Pranaah has come a long way from its debut Onam collection, Vaalkkannadi, that Poornima launched in 2015. The range in Kerala handloom was inspired by the traditional Kerala mirror (vaalkkannadi). The following Onam, Aanachandam, brought in the vibrant hues of the Thrissur pooram into the clothing line, in the form of embroidered elephants and the colours of the parasols. 

“I have taken tips from my past collections, and put together a very different collage for Onam ‘24,” she says. The collection includes salwar kurtas, kaftans, saris, and blouses in off-white and black and colour interpretations. The signature blouses come with lines embroidered on them. The menswear collection includes shirts; which can be worn by women as well. The range has been designed to appeal to the younger crowd.