Jhumkas on the runway: Why Ralph Lauren’s ‘vintage accessories’ at Paris Fashion Week sparked a cultural credit debate

After Ralph Lauren showcased jhumka-style earrings at Paris Fashion Week, describing them as “vintage accessories”, critics questioned the absence of South Asian attribution

Ralph Lauren was in the line of fire at the Paris Fashion Week held between March 2 and March 10 after models sashayed down the runway sporting jhumka-style earrings from its Polo Ralph Lauren Fall Winter 26-27 women’s collection . The luxury brand described the earpieces as “vintage accessories”, without making any reference to their South Asian origin. As expected, the jhumkas elicited a fusillade of comments and debates across social media platforms. Many viewers and critics were quick to point out their glaring similarity to jewellery that has been part of subcontinent heritage for centuries.

Polo Ralph Lauren Fall Winter 26-27 women’s collection | Photo Credit: Special arrangement

The bell-shaped earrings, from silver domes to exaggerated beaded drops, were paired with rodeo-inspired pieces featuring equestrian elements like fringe suede jacket, patch pocket denims and saddlery bags.

Dimensional layers and effortless sophistication define the Fall 2026 women's Polo Ralph Lauren collection.Presented during #ParisFashionWeek, the collection is styled with authentic vintage accessories.#PoloRLStyle#PFWpic.twitter.com/4Zb4315iIs

Across all its Instagram posts, the brand wrote, “Featuring vintage accessories and select pieces crafted by Native American designers Neil Zarama, Jimmy Begay, and TÓPA as part of Ralph Lauren’s Authentic Makers and Artist in Residence programs.” In one of its Instagram posts, the caption read, “Select looks are styled with authentic vintage accessories.”

According to caratlane.com and other fine jewellery websites, jhumkas originated in India around 300BC, initially synonymous with temple deities and dancers . A synonym for femininity, they evolved from South Indian temple jewellery. The earliest jhumkas, found in Chola temple sculptures in South India, were crafted from gold and were later popularised by temple dancers.