In Frames | Heralding Onam

The traditional Atham procession held in Tripunithura, near Kochi, was a riot of colours, giving a foretaste of Kerala’s most important festival

The streets of Tripunithura burst into a riot of colours on Atham day, marking the ceremonial start to Onam celebrations. Athaghosham, a procession that celebrates ancient traditions as much as the new, includes a melange of brilliantly costumed men and women, elaborate floats, folk art forms, Kerala’s traditional percussion ensembles and ritualistic art forms.

Men with bodies painted in glistening stripes of yellow, black, orange and silver play the Pulikkali (tiger dance), an integral part of Onam revelry.

While Kathakali and Theyyam costumes add old­school elegance, tableau faunting amboyant, kitschy costumes give it an air of a carnival. Until 1949, Athachamayam, as the colourful procession was known, was an affair helmed by the Cochin royal family.

The King of Cochin went out to see his people on the day of Atham, dressed in royal finery and accompanied by his Army. However, the practice came to an end in 1949 as the princely states ceased to exist after Independence.

By the 1960s, it had evolved into a people’s celebration. It moved out from the Hill Palace, the abode of the Cochin royal family, to the Government Boys’ High School, Tripunithura. Today, it has people from varied communities and social backgrounds taking part. Prizes are given to the best participants and costumes. The short procession that goes around Tripunithura concludes at Atham Nagar. The annual event, which showcases Kochi through a kaleidoscope, stands for every thing Kochi is — colourful, united and forward.