Behind Bulgari’s wedding gift for India

Jewellery director Mauro di Roberto on the Indian market, the brand’s design language, and why the million-dollar market is important

Bulgari, the Rome-based jewellery company, recently unveiled its first India-specific product offering alongside brand ambassador Priyanka Chopra Jonas. The 18k gold necklace is a mangalsutra with five discs, set with black onyx and pavé diamonds. With this, the brand, which first entered India in 2014, when single brand retail was permitted, is laying out its ambitious intentions for a market where traditional jewellery dominates.

In an exclusive interview with The Hindu Weekend, jewellery director Mauro di Roberto, a 42-year veteran of Bulgari, explained why the brand is betting big on India, which has long been a source of important gemstones for the company. In fact, the large gem on the recent eye-popping 93-carat emerald necklace sported by actor Zendaya at the Venice Film Festival was sourced in Jaipur.

Now, the brand hopes to court the well-heeled Indian, someone who doesn’t mind paying global prices for luxurious designs. As Roberto says, Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari’s creative director (and self-declared ‘gem hunter’) adores India. So it’s befitting that they attempt to make inroads here. Edited excerpts from the interview: