Ralph Lauren jhumkas, Prada Kolhapuris… the 'where's India's credit?' list goes on

Ralph Lauren calling jhumkas "vintage pieces" is just the latest example of global fashion borrowing from India without acknowledgement.

The thing about fashion is that very few creations are ever truly original. More often than not, they are inspired by something that already exists, a silhouette seen decades ago, a textile discovered during travel, or a cultural element that has quietly lived in a community for generations.

That isn't unique to fashion alone. Creativity in any field often builds on memory, observation and reinterpretation. Something you saw years ago can suddenly resurface as an idea, a design or a trend. And when it comes to global luxury brands, India has long been a source of such inspiration, with the country's vast cultural archive repeatedly finding its way onto international runways. From runway collections to luxury accessories, global brands keep circling back to India, a country where fashion is not just about trends, but about centuries of culture, craftsmanship and storytelling woven into every detail.

In recent years, this fascination has only grown stronger. Design houses have experimented with elements that feel unmistakably Indian. Sometimes these references are acknowledged and celebrated as collaborations or inspirations. At other times, however, the origins go unmentioned, sparking debates about cultural borrowing and appropriation.

Let's start with the latest one. Ralph Lauren recently found itself at the centre of social media criticism after accessories resembling traditional Indian jhumkas appeared on its runway during Paris Fashion Week.

What might otherwise have been dismissed as another case of cultural inspiration quickly turned into a heated online debate. Many viewers pointed out that the statement earrings showcased in the collection bore a striking resemblance to the classic jhumka, which is a bell-shaped earring style that has been part of our jewellery heritage for centuries.

The backlash intensified when users noticed that the brand had not acknowledged India or the cultural origins of the design in any of its social media posts. Instead, the accessories were described simply as "vintage pieces." Jhumka-inspired earrings by Ralph Lauren | Photos: Instagram/Ralph Lauren