Rajasthan’s Nawalgarh is among the world’s living-art open air galleries. We take a tour

Nawalgarh, in Rajasthan, is a proud testament of a community’s success and a region’s craftsmanship. Its colourful bygone glory is enjoying a new lease of life now  

Aabid Khan Kayamkhani is overcome with emotion at the loss of some of the finest works in the havelis of Nawalgarh. As a tour guide, he gives visitors a quick lesson in the place’s history and art. One such haveli has been painted over in cream and pink, leaving a mere door and the space around it as a reminder of the lost art.

“We grew up hearing about and seeing the artwork of these havelis. Our generation has seen this place become this wonderful centre of art. There is no other place in the world that can match Nawalgarh’s havelis,” says Aabid, who also works as a location liaison for movie and OTT shooting crews.

The lit-up inner courtyard of Podar Haveli Museum | Photo Credit: Garima Verma

His sentiment might seem amplified but it was his ancestors who stood witness to the history of the region for four centuries before Thakur Nawal Singh founded Nawalgarh in the Jhunjhunu district of the Shekhawati region of Rajasthan. It was a Chauhan prince, Rana Karamchand, who converted to Islam in 1356 under the rule of Firuz Shah Tughlaq, became Kayam Khan and thus, began a community called Kayamkhani, which followed both Rajput and Muslim traditions. Their weddings, thus, had both pheras and nikah.  

When Nawalgarh came into being in 1737, the Marwari community flocked to it, making it one of the most affluent places over time. Many well-known Marwari business families, like Jaipurias, Goenkas, Jiwrajkas, Khaitans, Morarkas, Podars, Seksarias, and others have roots in Nawalgarh. And, during the 18th-19th centuries, these wealthy businessmen and merchants built multi-storeyed, multi-courtyard mansions that even put many palaces to shame with their craftsmanship.  

Sone ki dukan haveli’s work, Mahansar | Photo Credit: Garima Verma