Climate change and environmental degradation are subjects for this textile art show in Chennai

Bhoomi, an impressive display of textile art, depicts environmental degradation across landscapes and seascape, through weaving, crochet and patchwork

Enclosed in a clear glass box is a cross section of rich marine life rendered with utmost detail through a tapestry of colour and texture. A peek inside will reveal everything from thriving jellyfish to bleached coral reefs: a reminder of what is, and what could be. With impressive detailing, fashioned entirely out of upcycled fabric through weaving, patchwork and crochet techniques, these cross sections are mere representations of life: not just from deep inside the ocean, but the woods, and the frozen world too.   

Layers of fabric in various shapes, forms and amorphous renditions, laid across a white cube might, seem like a superficial act of capturing environmental degradation at its rawest. But telling stories that demand grave attention and quick action, through art makes the cause more accessible. Which is why Bhoomi, an exhibit, thoughtfully curated by textile artist and designer Kalyani Pramod, with a layout that spreads across Alliance Francaise of Madras’ Espace 24 gallery, is important. 

On the farthest end of the display is a large-scale depiction of an avalanche, fashioned out of Tyvek, a discarded fishing net, an old saree, beads and sequins: it cascades from the wall on to the white floor. Right in the middle of the layout stand miniature sculptures, some titled and others not, of animals and insects — from a porcupine made of discarded paper to a rather wiry spider, and even a pair of mice, in patchwork and patterns, entrenched in dialogue. 

On the packed opening night, Kalyani, the brain behind the display, says – amidst being pulled away multiple times to be offered compliments — “All through my practice, I have worked towards and around the environment. I look at Nature as an inspiration. It’s created so beautifully and perfectly.” 

A visiting professor at National Institute of Fashion Technology, Chennai, she often tells her students to look at the natural world for inspiration, even for something as seemingly easy as colour combinations. “Climate change is a big conversation and I felt I have to contribute in some way to bring awareness to the people, more so to the young.” To that end, boards that hold explainers aided by statistical data, accompany the works on display. “I would like to create a small ripple,” she says.

The narrative of the show springs from the waters (marine life), and then moves to the woods and frozen land, separated as three sections. She speaks of an experience that she considers a wake-up call. “Once while driving to Santa Fe, we saw the whole sky turn red, and realised that the forest fires were nearing us.” 

Kalyani, who is also an avid collector of fabric waste, says that while the larger concept was in place, the individual elements were not pre-decided. Their forms would reveal themselves over the course of creating the piece. She points to a vibrant work that represents a tree enclosed in glass, and says, “I started creating these leaves by patching all the fabrics I had together and sandwiching them between a water-soluble sheet and running a machine over it. Hundreds of leaves were created thus. At the same time, we would get some other material which we would spin and make yarns out of. It would grow, sometimes disassemble and grow again.”  The display is also home to a community artwork:  a loom that invites viewers to engage and pick up pieces of fabric and weave to create a tapestry.