When ‘Ce qui se trame’ traced centuries of textile history between India and France

Discover the landmark exhibition "Ce qui se trame," celebrating four centuries of Indo-French textile dialogue at Galerie des Gobelins, Paris.

At Galerie des Gobelins in Paris, the air hangs heavy with the legacy of craftsmanship. It was here, amidst a centuries-old tradition of tapestry excellence, that the textile synergy between India and France found its most iconic stage. Ce qui se trame (Textile Matters) was less an exhibition and more of an immersive spectacle — a sensory odyssey through the soul of two nations, spanning four centuries, that have mutually inspired crafted textile traditions. The title alludes to the weft of the loom and the colloquial expression in French for ‘what’s happening’ — suggesting the creative alchemy occurring behind the scenes.

Ce Qui Se Trame. Histoires Tissées Entre l’Inde et la France at Galerie des Gobelins

Born of a visionary mandate announced by French President Emmanuel Macron during his 2024  visit to India, the project emerged as a cornerstone of a new, ambitious cultural roadmap. The Institut Français and Mobilier National — which manages over 100,000 pieces of historic and contemporary furniture, carpets, and tapestries — were charged to not only honour but to actively harness the living heritage of two nations bound by a shared devotion to craftsmanship. The month-long exhibition served as a crucible for Indian and French designers to ignite new narratives.

In Le Fil d’Or, visitors discovered brocades and hand-woven silk fabrics | Photo Credit: Sophia Taillet

A handwoven triptych, created in the complex technique of samite at the Asha Workshop at Devi Art Foundation. It recreated figurative imagery from frescoes at the Sistine chapel. | Photo Credit: Sophia Taillet

The task of realising the exhibition fell to a formidable creative pairing: Mayank Mansingh Kaul, Delhi’s textile curator, and Christian Louboutin, the globally renowned red-soled luxury shoe designer with a deep love for India. Together, they infused the gallery with meticulous precision and theatrical flair, drawing together a rare assemblage from major museums and private collections across India and France. “This exhibition shows how Indian textiles have evolved through cultural exchanges,” says Kaul, “turning what could have been a project about two national identities into one of a shared culture and aesthetic.”