Uncertainty looms over Kolkata’s horse-drawn carriages

Discover the fading tradition of Kolkata's horse-drawn carriages through the eyes of 17-year-old Rahul Das and his beloved horses.

Early one October morning, amid the vibrant sounds of Durga Puja dhaks (drums) resonating throughout Kolkata, 17-year-old Rahul Das embarks on his daily routine — harnessing his two horses to his carriage and driving from the stables in Kidderpore in the city’s south-west to the centrally located Queens Way — around 6.30 a.m. Upon arriving outside the iconic Victoria Memorial, he parks his vehicle in a long queue of around 20 horse-drawn carriages and then provides his horses with breakfast before starting another day of ferrying tourists through the city’s streets.

Clad in a black shirt and pants, Rahul explains the care he devotes to his horses’ nutrition, detailing their meal consisting of chana (chickpeas), ghash (grass), and bhushi (husk). “I feed them four times a day — in the morning, twice in the afternoon, and at night,” he says. By 9 a.m., the horses are ready to greet passengers and traverse the city till they return home in the evening.

Seventy-seven years after India’s Independence, horse-drawn carriages continue to evoke Kolkata’s colonial heritage, transforming from a luxury reserved for high society into a cherished tourist attraction. However, this symbol of the city’s past now faces scrutiny from animal rights activists, sparking a debate about the delicate balance between preserving a legacy and ensuring animal welfare.

For ₹500, groups of five can enjoy a scenic 20-minute carriage ride starting and ending at the majestic Victoria Memorial gates on Queens Way. This 2-km journey along Kidderpore Road and Maidan passes the historic Fort William, an 18th-century structure now serving as the headquarters of the Army’s Eastern Command. Alternatively, solo riders can opt for horseback rides along Queens Way at two rates: ₹400 for an extended route and ₹200 for a shorter stretch.

Unlike his peers who attend school, Rahul has been driving a horse-drawn carriage since 2019, taking over his elder brother’s labour contract after he left the job. He earns ₹14,000 a month and also receives food and accommodation from his employer, who owns three carriages and six horses. Rahul is resolute about his future: “I’ll continue driving the horse-drawn carriage for as long as it’s needed.”

His long-term plan, however, involves handing over the reins to his brother when he returns, and heading back “home” — a term that evokes memories of his childhood in Assam’s Guwahati, where he shared a modest dwelling with his parents and brother near the railway quarters. “Now, I live with my horses at the Kidderpore stables, where the other horses and drivers spend their nights. My favourite horse, Joker, lives, eats, and works with me,” he says, as he lovingly pets one of the white horses attached to his carriage.

Rahul says he quickly adapted to his role, mastering horse riding and carriage driving in just four months. “The only time I got kicked by my horses was when I was new and they weren’t familiar with me. Joker, for example, is aggressive with everyone else, but with me, he’s gentle.”