The history of the Navratri vrat thali

Navratri is a Hindu festival celebrated with fasting & festivities, symbolising the triumph of good over evil. It's origins remain elusive, but in the 1970s, the concept of a formal thali emerged. Today, restaurants offer innovative vrat thalis, reflecting India's diverse culinary heritage. #Navratri #HinduFestival #VratThali #CulinaryHeritage

Navratri, the nine-night Hindu festival, is far more than a celebration; it’s a profound spiritual voyage entwined with devout fasting and lively festivities, all dedicated to the worship of the goddess Durga in her myriad divine forms. Typically celebrated in the Hindu month of Ashwin, usually in September or October, this festival symbolises the perennial triumph of good over evil, epitomised in the veneration of the nine incarnations of Durga. One of its most renowned legends recounts Durga’s conquest over the demon king Mahishasura.

However, Navratri’s fasting transcends mere dietary restrictions; it embodies a deep sense of devotion and discipline. Devotees meticulously adhere to a range of food limitations, abstaining from grains, specific vegetables, table salt, and certain spices.

“A traditional Navratri vrat thali comprises Sabudana Khichdi, Kuttu ki Roti, Singhara Atta Puris, Rajgira Paratha, plain yoghurt, fruit salad, Vrat Ke Aloo, coconut chutney, kheer (prepared with buckwheat or amaranth), fresh fruits (bananas, apples, pomegranates), and dry fruits and nuts (almonds, cashews, raisins),” notes Ganesh Amkar, executive sous chef, Courtyard by Marriott Mumbai International Airport who is hosting a vrat thali at his restaurant for the festive season.

The historical origins of the Navratri vrat thali, however, remain somewhat elusive. As noted food historian and academic Pushpesh Pant elucidates, “Orthodox Hindus fasted according to family tradition, consuming prescribed cereal-less, Satvik food, primarily phalahar (fruit)-based meals. However, the concept of a formal thali as we know it today did not exist.”

In the past, Navratri fasting often involved dishes crafted from ingredients such as buckwheat, water chestnut (Singhada), makhana, and potatoes. The fast wasn’t uniformly observed by all family members nor was it followed throughout the entire nine days of Navratri, the historian notes.

The 1970s witnessed a significant transformation in the concept of the Navratri thali. This era was marked by the ascendance of religious identities and the fashionable embrace of rituals and customs among those who lived in cities.

While many often perceive Navratri as a Gujarati festival with a Gujarati thali, archaeologist and culinary anthropologist Kurush F Dalal debunks this notion, stating, “That is a misconception. There’s a Navratri thali in Uttar Pradesh and Maharashtra, and in Bengal, for the Durga pujo, a notably non-vegetarian thali is served, whereas in Gujarat, it’s a strictly vegetarian affair.”