Konoha is a no-frills ramen bar near Goa’s Margao bus stop that is winning locals 

Inspired by Japan’s Ichiran Ramen, Konoha, an eight-seater restaurant in Goa serves three types of ramen   

It is Saturday evening in bustling Margao. I am zealously holding on to my less-than half metre elbow space on the counter in front. Slurping away. Thick, luscious strands flecked with chicken pieces and meaty shiitake slither down my throat. Followed by heaped spoonfuls of deep, rich, umami broth. I am in ramen heaven, in this tiny Goan eatery with a counter that seats just eight people; elbow to elbow.  

This is Konoha, a ramen bar, located behind the Margao bus stop, which opened in September last year. Snagging a reservation is a tall order. But once you are there, you will know why. Food here is a religion; a crazy mix of simplistic and sensual nourishment. And driving it all are Chef Herschell Fernandes and his business partner, Grendon Periera. Konoha, is their creative crucible. No frills. Just plain good food. 

The restaurant is inspired by Ichiran Ramen, a Japanese chain that began in 1960 as a ramen stall in Fukuoka. The stall was originally called Futaba Ramen and was so exclusive that it required a membership to dine there.

 I am guessing it is this exclusivity that Herschell and Grendon are after, considering that they are so nonchalant about any kind of marketing or publicity. “I am a die-hard anime lover but, what I’m most inspired by is the street food culture of Japan. People are only looking for good food. No gimmicks… nothing. They simply come in, feel nourished and leave. We’ve tried to create a similar establishment here,” shares Herschell, about his vision behind the place. “I want the food to do all the talking.” 

Goa’s first Ichiraku style ramen spot, Konoha borrows its name from the fictional ninja village, Konoha, or the Hidden Leaf Village. It runs as a very tight ship, establishing itself as an address for Japanese cuisine lovers. South Goa has only a few; Tanuki in Margaon and Endiapan, run by the talented Chef Ayumi from her little store and restaurant in Canacona, which serves a small Japanese menu as dine in and takeaway. The North, on the other hand, has seen a burgeoning number with establishments like Sakana, Kofuku, Sake, Matcha, Yazu, Izumi and Shiori, a yakitori bar in Siolim.  

There is an urgent precision to the cooking here in Konoha, and it is visible to the diners gathered around. I am blown away with the depth of the flavours and that certain freshness that cuts through it all. Open only on three days, Saturday is on a first-come-first serve-basis with reservations open through Instagram and WhatsApp.  

The menu at Konoha is tight and concise with just three variations of ramen, two variations of sushi, two yakitori and two donburis, the portion sizes are sumptuous.