India’s new spice merchants
The Hindu
The focus is clearly shifting to small farmers, fair trade, traceability and provenance. Meet a few people who are leading the change
It is estimated that a spice changes hands almost 10 times (in trade) once it leaves the farm. Inevitably, freshness is lost, and valuable essential oils are sometimes extracted before it lands on retail shelves. For something that forms the underpinning of most Indian cuisines, it is ironical that the way spices are sourced and used gets such little attention in the modern Indian kitchen. Fortunately, a few small farmers and entrepreneurs are trying to fix this by putting high quality, cleanly-sourced spices into the spice box. It is an approach which can eventually make our pantries more fragrant and discerning, even as small growers benefit.
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