How India’s mixologists are curating history-inspired cocktail menus Premium
The Hindu
The menus delve into different aspects of history — the heritage of a city, of a place, ingredients that have stood the test of time, and even, classic drinks
Once upon a time, in the 17th century, the governor of Malabar wrote a botanical treatise. Hortus Malabaricus (Garden of Malabar) is a series of 12 tomes that highlighted the flora in the Malabar Coast and its medicinal properties; it is considered an important book on India’s plant wealth. Today, this treatise finds space in research, studies and other books and lately, in cocktails.
At Kochi’s Hortus — The Garden of Malabar, the cocktail programme is a tribute to the botanicals mentioned in the book. “It was fascinating to learn about our rich heritage and how the Malabar region was responsible for many botanicals we use today,” says owner Issac Alexander. “There’s no bigger story that needs to be told, and what better way to say it than through craft cocktails?”
These days, cocktails come with a garnish of history. The cocktail evolution in India is seeing rapid strides. Once a neglected part of a menu, today it is often a restaurant’s shining star. Cocktails are winning awards and propelling their bars to stardom, they are showcasing modern techniques and skills and highlighting lesser known ingredients.
Often, they tell a story. “In 2024, if you are making drinks without any thought, you won’t pique people’s interest,” says Arijit Bose, mixologist. “It is always good to have the stories to go with the drinks, so it gives the team some direction, and inspiration,” he says, adding, “There has to be a little bit of romance.”
The past, expectedly, is ripe for romance. Mixologists and bartenders today are seeking inspiration from different aspects of history — the heritage of a city, of a place, ingredients that have stood the test of time, and even, classic drinks.
Delhi’s Fort City Brewing’s Takht-E-Dilli menu highlights eight historical city forts, while The Library Bar at the Leela Palace has a cocktail programme that honours old classic novels and books. In Kolkata, brewpub Olterra’s In Search of Bengal, looks at unique city flavours like Bandel cheese. At Bandra Born in Mumbai, Chef Gresham Fernandes has sought inspiration from the stories of the suburb to create cocktails named after characters or legends. Patricia’s Pussycats, for example, is a vodka-orgeat-aperol cocktail inspired by the story of a foreigner named Patricia living in Bandra who would take two tiger cubs she had as pets, on walks down Carter Road.
And in Goa, Slow Tide’s beverage menu is inspired by the Anjuna of the 80’s and 90’s when it was a hub for hippies. The team did six months of research, meeting locals and members of the community to learn about stories and legendary characters — 11 of whom were honoured in the first menu.
