From ugali to puff-puff, this Scarborough restaurant serves up beloved East African dishes
CBC
Metro Morning's food guide, Suresh Doss, joins us every week to talk about one of the many great GTA eateries he's discovered.
Today, he talked to host Ismaila Alfa about a spot in Scarborough where you can find East African comfort dishes.
Ismaila: So we're heading back to Shawarma Row this week in Scarborough this week?
Suresh: If you haven't figured out by now, Ismaila, we're going to cover every inch of Lawrence Avenue East. But yes, we're back to Wexford Heights in Scarborough.
I want to talk about this wonderful East African place, Pili Pili. It's been open for nearly a decade as one of the signature strip plazas that sit on Lawrence Avenue.
It's run by Azim Kara and his partner Amanda Hagerman. The menu is broad, but it's essentially a takeout counter, and that's important. Because while Azim's and Amanda's cooking is heavily influenced by Tanzanian and Kenyan food, there are some wonderful tweaks because they're food is suited to go.
Ismaila: Give me an example of that.
Suresh: An example is ugali, one of the signature foods of Africa. It's a type of cornmeal that has different names as you travel throughout Africa. In South Africa, it's pap.
I think you know it as fufu in West Africa. It's this pliable, thickened porridge that is a vessel. You pluck a piece of the cornmeal with your hand, then you make a dent in it with your thumb. Then it becomes a vessel to pair it with greens or stews.
Azim got a lot of requests for ugali, but he wanted to present it in a more takeout friendly fashion. They look like thick hand-cut fries, but really well seasoned. And you can get the ugali fries at Pili Pili with all sorts of dishes.
You can get it with the mishkaki – different cuts of meat that are generously seasoned and grilled. You can even order it in poutine form, where it's served with cheese curds and a really thick spicy gravy.
I personally love to have it with this hen dish they have on the menu.
Ismaila: Tell me about this dish.
Suresh: So it's basically a Cornish hen that is fried whole. After it's crisped up, it's then tossed in a secret sauce blend with a variety of spices, thick enough that it clings on to the chicken. It has a really nice tangy note to it, which [resembles] the way meats were preserved generations ago with a lot of lemon.
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