Five watches that made waves at Geneva Watch Days 2024

With 52 brands and their 100 watches, the recently concluded Geneva Watch Days puts the spotlight on new trends in horology

In its fifth edition, Geneva Watch Days (GWD) has come a long way from August 2020 when it was launched by its six founding members — watch brands Breitling, Bvlgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, H Moser & Cie, and MB&F. An exhibit-cum-celebration of watchmaking, the event was held across various locations in Geneva, from hotels like Beau Rivage, Fairmont, Angleterre, Ritz-Carlton and Woodward, to boutiques of watch brands like Breguet, Blancpain, and Breitling. It had a common pavilion though — at the lakefront promenade in the backdrop of the city’s largest fountain Jet d’Eau — where all the 52 participating brands converged for discussions on horology and to display their new collections.

Held between August 29 and September 2, the five-day event is testament to new trends in horology. We hand-pick five must-watch timepieces from over 100 that were showcased at GWD 2024.

Bvlgari, the Swiss luxury watchmaker with a Roman soul, stunned the world with not just one but three chiming watches, the most complex one being the Grande Sonnerie that chimes with four hammers. The chime of the Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie features the minute repeater where its four hammers mark time with a tune composed by Swiss-Italian conductor Lorenzo Viotti. This timepiece, equipped with an innovative open-worked metal dial, reinvents the melody by adding the tritone, a characteristic interval of classical music. This marks a deviation from the linear Westminster chime, the world of four-gong chiming watches used for centuries.

Price: CHF 936,000, limited to five pieces only

Breitling continues to celebrate its 140th anniversary with the launch of a special calibre that marks its entry into the world of perpetual calendars and equips three flagship models — Premier, Navitimer, and Chronomat. The new calibre promises no adjustment of date even in leap years and comes with an impressive 96-hour power reserve. Each of the flagship anniversary models are limited-edition 140 timepieces. While all the three models are driven by the B19 calibre, they represent different worlds.

We choose the quintessential pilot’s watch — the Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary. The Navitimer series combined a chronograph with the circular slide rule flight computer, that is synonymous with Breitling. Though originally developed in 1952 for members of the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association, Navitimer quickly found favour with a broader audience that liked the world of aviation. The anniversary edition features a stunning 18k red-gold dial and the famous slide rule in black. The alligator leather strap with contrasting top stitching and a 18k gold folding buckle complete the look.

Price: CHF 55,000