Comorin lands in Mumbai with a tasting tour of the country

Experience Comorin's elevated regional Indian cuisine in Mumbai, with innovative cocktails and a warm, contemporary ambiance.

For years, the shorthand for dining out in Indian metros meant calling in a Thai curry, picking pasta over paratha, or playing it safe with butter chicken and naan. It was not that we did not love our local food, it is just that certain flavours, usually North Indian or vaguely “Mughlai,” dominated menus and imaginations alike. But that is changing.

Slowly, then suddenly, regional Indian cuisine has slipped into the spotlight. What was once siloed to homes, festivals, or specific communities is now making its way to small plates and chef’s tasting menus. This culinary curiosity has opened new doors, especially for a generation of diners. After earning a devoted following in Gurugram for its elevated take on regional Indian comfort food, Comorin has finally made its Mumbai debut at Nilaya Anthology, the new concept store by Asian Paints that spotlights design and home decor in Lower Parel. It marks the arrival of a philosophy that honours India’s street-side staples and regional gems, all through a distinctly contemporary lens.

Operated by EHV International (part of Old World Hospitality), Comorin has carved a reputation for doing something quite rare: making diners nostalgic and intrigued at the same time. Brand Chef Dhiraj Dargan draws from the country’s diverse culinary map to create a menu that feels both city-specific and universally comforting. And it is not just the food that invites exploration. Varun Sharma, EHV International’s head of bars, brings his award-winning cocktail craftsmanship to Mumbai too. The bar programme continues Comorin’s tradition of innovation with sous-vide infusions, cocktails on tap, and an array of house-made sodas and beverages.

Building on the original Gurugram outpost, the Mumbai edition is not a replica but a re-interpretation — rooted in brand identity, yet sensitively tailored for its new home. London-based Russell Sage Studio, in collaboration with creative director Rishiv Khattar of EHV, carries forward the design language with a renewed eye. The palette deepens, quite literally — blushes and deep reds that formed accents in Gurugram now take centrestage here, enveloping the space in warmth and tactility.

Materials are the quiet protagonists: Indian wood, richly grained; tactile fabrics; metal finishes with a burnished sheen; tiles that subtly segment the space into zones. From the experimental, almost disjointed bar at the entrance, communal tables extend inward, guiding guests through a mix of seating arrangements until they reach a tucked-away room at the back — part retreat, part reveal.

There is something delightfully rogue about a menu that gives you bheja fry with khasta roti, then turns around and hands you a chocolate dessert with a Monaco biscuit crumble. Comorin’s Mumbai chapter is indulgent, but with restraint.

Take the Smoked Kathal Galawat. It is smoky, yes, but not heavy. The jackfruit does not try to impersonate meat — it holds its own, bolstered by the sweetness of mango chilli chutney that arrives like a sharp little side note. Then comes the Kalari Cheese Bun, a gooey nod to Jammu, offset with sweet chilli onions that flirt rather than overwhelm.