Anxious to show their support, Montrealers flock to landmark Ukrainian deli

Music is usually playing inside Zytynsky's, the unimposing Ukrainian deli on Beaubien Street in Montreal's Saint-Michel neighbourhood — songs by musicians from Lviv, from the late singer Kvitka Cisyk, anything that pleases owner Angel Zytynsky. 

"I like to put people in a good mood," Zytynsky said from behind the counter.

But there was no music to greet customers on Thursday afternoon.

"It didn't feel right," she said. Instead, Zytynsky lit a candle with a Ukrainian embroidery pattern on it and placed it behind her as she worked.

The deli has become a magnet for Ukrainian Montrealers seeking community as their country of origin faces a full-scale attack from Russia, as well as others eager to show their support.

While protests and vigils are also going on, Zytynsky's is low key, a place where people can chat and find human connection while going about the business of life.

It's what Yolanta Petrowsky and Lynda Pineau came to do. The two, who became friends last year, have links to Ukraine and Poland. 

Petrowsky has lived in Quebec for 35 years but is from the city of Lublin in Poland, near the border with Ukraine and Belarus. Her native city has already begun taking in refugees, housing many at the local university, she said.

"I wish I was there with the people, helping, feeling useful," Petrowsky said. "In difficult times, you can't forget your roots — and your food!" she added, holding up two bags filled with goods from Zytynsky's. 

Throughout the day, people dropped by for the deli's specials: kielbasa, strudel, cherry cheesecake and smoked-meat sandwiches.

Benjamin Hatcher, who lives nearby but is not Ukrainian, said he had called one of the Ukrainian Catholic churches in the neighbourhood to ask the priest when he could attend the next mass.

"I just said that I'm in Saint-Michel and that I wanted to show my support and I wanted to know when masses were, so I could come and just be there in solidarity, and pray," Hatcher said.

The priest struggled to answer. 

"He couldn't even get to that. He just started crying."