Why Nefertiti still inspires, 3,300 years after she reigned

In the modern day, Nefertiti’s significance as a cultural icon remains strong.

One hundred years ago, in a courtyard at the Neues Museum in Berlin, the world came face to face for the first time with one of its most enduring beauty icons: Queen Nefertiti. Discovered in Egypt in 1912 by German archeologists, her 3,300-year-old stucco-coated limestone bust went on display in 1924. Its unveiling stunned audiences from Cairo to London and sparked a century-long fascination with her aesthetic.

The artifact’s sharply defined features — her chiseled jawline, high cheekbones, ‘swan-like’ neck, and kohl-rimmed eyes — have, for decades, served as a reference point across fashion and the arts.

In the bust, Nefertiti is seen wearing a wide collar and a flat-topped crown with a golden band and uraeus (a headdress featuring a sacred serpent), decorated in greens, yellows, browns and blues. Research indicates that she was a royal and noblewoman who reportedly bore six daughters, one of whom is said to have married Tutankhamun, but little else is known about Nefertiti’s life and origins. Egypt in the 14th century BC was not ethnically or racially homogeneous, and many scholars surmise that, based on her depictions and the region’s population, Nefertiti would be considered a woman of colour in today’s terms.

“Nefertiti’s bust is so perfect; she’s so self-possessed,” Dr. Cheryl Finley, a professor of art history at Spelman College in Atlanta, told CNN. “That’s what really grabs the attention and imagination. It’s her confidence, and her gaze, of course. It’s something that attracts us all.”

Following the bust’s discovery in the 1920s, Nefertiti quickly became an “it” girl. The meaning of her name, ‘the beautiful one has arrived,’ proved particularly apt, as her face was plastered across advertisements for kohl, and her likeness appeared in beauty columns.

Designers of the time, such as the French couturier Paul Poiret, incorporated Egyptian motifs into their work. In 1945, American milliner Lilly Daché designed hats with a distinct Nefertiti flair. By 1961, Vogue had published an article exploring the world’s ongoing “fascination” with the queen. Elizabeth Taylor’s portrayal of Cleopatra in 1963 further cemented this obsession, making the “Egyptian look” a staple in fashion circles.

Nefertiti’s style continued to influence fashion decades after the bust’s discovery. In Dior’s Spring 2004 show, John Galliano showcased looks that included tall Nefertiti hats. In 2015, Christian Louboutin launched a lipstick collection that drew inspiration from the royal wife, featuring gold-and-black vials adorned with crowns. (Nefertiti likely used the natural clay earth pigment red ochre for her lips). Jewelry designers like Azza Fahmy have evoked her in their pieces, while Azzedine Alaïa’s Fall 2017 line paid tribute with black turbans, one of which was famously worn by supermodel Naomi Campbell.