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Wander into Chennai’s first speakeasy style bar and discover unique cocktail and food pairings

Wander into Chennai’s first speakeasy style bar and discover unique cocktail and food pairings

The Hindu
Friday, November 15, 2024 09:31:29 AM UTC

Discover Madras Cocktail Company, a speakeasy in Chennai for mature crowds seeking innovative cocktails and gourmet small plates.

I have reached an age when everything is too loud. Bars, concerts, and the inevitably rambunctious family sitting beside me at a restaurant. So, I am intrigued when I hear whispers about a speakeasy launching in Chennai. Especially since — for once — it is being curated for a crowd that has outgrown tequila shots, packed dance floors and the thud of techno all night. 

The Madras Cocktail Company — shortened to MadCo — is tucked away on a side street and our first challenge is finding it. Once we do, we push open a heavy door to reveal a cosy space lit with soft buttery lights on the ceiling and dominated by a sleek bar.  

Santhosh Zachariah Abraham, managing partner of MadCo says, “As a person of around 40 I have reached a stage where I want a space where I can sit, chill and talk. Right now, in Chennai we have either family bar restaurants or hectic night clubs.” MadCo is neither.  

As his lead bartenders, Vishal and Rohit Rajput, shake up boozy cocktails, one of the waiters sets a plate of crunchy shrimp heads fried in ghee in front of us. The moreish dish is a gutsy choice — it will appeal only to a niche audience. Santhosh shrugs, “That’s fine. We think it’s delicious.”  

Charting a defiant path is possible only if you are not targeting a mass audience, and MadCo is deliberately small, with space for just 50 people. Founding partner R V S Kiran, who has spent over a decade in the hotel industry, says they are constantly looking for ways to innovate. “We’re planning to introduce new themes and ideas regularly, keeping it fresh for our guests! Going forward, also expect lots of collabs with the best bars and chefs from across Asia...” he says

“We are a community bar, not a commercial bar,” says Santhosh, adding that they plan to open to just about 25 people in the initial weeks.  

For the same reason, the menu, and space are still work in progress: For the past month friends and family have been dropping by with suggestions that are being tested by the young team. Though Vishal and Rohit are only in their early 20s, they have already worked in multiple bars, and are comfortable enough with modern mixology techniques like clarification, fat washing and fermentation to use them judiciously, while still retaining the charm of classic cocktails.  

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