Traditional fermented foods are prone to contamination: experts point to the need to balance safety with heritage Premium

Fermented foods in North-East India face contamination risks, highlighting the need for food safety measures and awareness.

Fermented foods are one of the most celebrated culinary elements of many North-Eastern cuisines. They have cultural, ethnic, geographic, and health attributes. However, they are also very vulnerable to contamination, according to a recent study by the Indian Council of Medical Research (ICMR). 

In the peer reviewed research paper titled ‘Ethnic Foods of Northeast India: Insight into the Light of Food Safety,’ the authors highlight the pressing concerns of food safety associated with these traditional preparations of fermented foods. 

The study, conducted from October 2023 to March 2024, surveyed 1,227 food samples across Assam, Arunachal Pradesh, Tripura, and Sikkim. Researchers identified a 6.8% prevalence of pathogens in the samples, with Bacillus cereus emerging as the most common contaminant. Other pathogens, including Staphylococcus aureus and Listeria monocytogenes, were also detected. 

Fermentation is an ancient technique of preserving food. It is a natural process through which microorganisms like yeast and bacteria convert carbohydrates into alcohol or acids. These act as natural preservatives, giving fermented foods their distinct tartness.

Fermentation, says Chef Atul Lahkar, Vice-President, North-East India Chef Association, and owner of Heritage Khorikaa Restaurant, is not just a preservation method but a way of life in the North East. “This is a huge part of our traditional foods. From Erumba in Manipur to Akhuni in Nagaland and Xukuti in Assam, each fermented dish carries a story of the people, their environment, and their cultural identity.” 

Their rich heritage apart, fermented foods are very nutritious. Madhuchhanda Das, first author of the research paper said fermented foods boosted immunity and protected those who consumed them from various seasonal infections. “Many investigations have shown the health benefits of fermented foods. They are widely consumed by the ethnic populations of Northeast India. These foods are easily available, and reasonably priced as well.” Additionally, many of these traditional food items are reported to have other benefits like antioxidant, anti-inflammatory properties, as well as insulin regulating and glycemic inhibiting properties. 

The process of preparation and preservation of fermented traditional foods involves various steps that can prompt contamination risks. Many of these foods like fermented bamboo shoots, fish, rice beer, leaves, radish, among other food are made using traditional methods, recipes and processes passed down through generations. There is natural fermentation, and sometimes smoking and salting is also involved in the process, with the use of minimal preservatives. Sometimes hygiene takes a hit along the way, and the absence of refrigeration alongside changing climatic conditions adds to the risk of contamination.