There’s No Hot Wing Like a Korean American Atlanta Hot Wing
The New York Times
Smaller, lighter and sharper than Buffalo wings, this interpretation of a classic has faded away over time. But you can make it at home.
There was a time in Hank Kim’s life when eating hot, crisp-fried chicken wings every day was the norm — he could easily down about 20 in a sitting — not least because his family opened a wing shop, Cafe Hot Wing, in 1988.
Another reason he could put away so many? The wings in question were smaller, sharper in flavor, even lighter than their Northern cousins, Buffalo wings. Much like the Atlanta hot wings of today, these Korean American wings were coated with a red-hot sauce, unbridled in their cayenne flavor and vinegary tang. One could argue that they were a dialed-up version, with a focused intensity in their blend of hot sauce, spices and pepper. A touch to the lips might make you break a sweat. That’s why they often came with celery and carrot sticks and a cup of blue cheese dip or ranch, to tame the flames.
In 1980s Atlanta, this style of hot wing (and its cooling plate-mates) gained footing as a fast food meal for a growing Korean American community. Unfortunately, these particular wings aren’t around anymore, or at least they’re harder to find. The one surefire way you can taste them today is to make them at home.
