The Queen of a Cherished New Orleans Restaurant Calls It a Night
The New York Times
For nearly 40 years, Upperline has been a showcase for JoAnn Clevenger’s vibrant art collection and effusive hostessing.
NEW ORLEANS — JoAnn Clevenger was certain she would reopen Upperline, her New Orleans Creole restaurant, for most of the 18 months since the Covid-19 pandemic forced its closing. That confidence began cracking this past summer, as she began, with the help of a therapist, to confront her fear of losing a business she regarded as her “platform” for 38 years.
“I was paralyzed not knowing what I was going to do with the rest of my life,” said Ms. Clevenger, who is 82.
This month, Ms. Clevenger announced that whatever her future holds, it will not include Upperline. While the restaurant is officially for sale, the retirement of its founder, who embraced her hostess role as a higher calling, marks the end of an era for an establishment whose charisma reflected its owner’s.
