‘Super Taster’ Who Lost Sense of Smell Is Helping Italians Regain It

A celebrated epicure in Italy was devastated when Covid-19 first stole, then warped his sense of taste. Through training, Michele Crippa has recaptured some of it and is now on a quest to aid others.

PIACENZA, Italy — Michele Crippa’s palate was renowned in Italy’s gastronomic circles, capable of appreciating the most subtle of flavors. He taught young chefs to distinguish between Parmesan cheeses of different ages — and between milk extracted at different altitudes. He reveled in the perfume of cod smoked over pine cones. In his reviews for Italy’s pre-eminent food magazine, he discerned the scent of champagne in raw Nicaraguan coffee beans and tasted traces of green peas in a blend from Kenya. Then, at 9:40 a.m. on Mar. 17, 2020, Mr. Crippa, 32, poured himself a cup of coffee. He tasted only hot water.