Pavithra Muddaya: ‘I had to call it the Cubbonpet sari’
The Hindu
textile revivalist Pavithra Muddaya reminisces on the journey to revive weaves of Karnataka
“It’s easier to weave a sari than set up a loom, especially when you take into account the mathematical and technical precision needed for the latter,” says textile revivalist Pavithra Muddaya while talking about her journey to revive several weaves of Karnataka, including the Cubbonpete Sari.
When Vimor was launched in 1974, the idea was to mentor weavers and give them a livelihood as well as to preserve heritage textiles. “It is imperative for every generation of weavers to see the relevance of innovation in the warp and weft of their work. This is a matter of pride for the weaver, buyer and the designer,” explains Pavithra, who is also Managing Trustee and lead designer of Vimor Handloom Foundation in the city.
Pavithra’s mother, Chimmi Nanjappa, the first manager of the Cauvery Arts and Crafts Emporium in Bengaluru, had gained a comprehensive knowledge of handicrafts and textiles over the years. In 1974, after her husband’s demise, she launched Vimor with Pavithra.
Pavithra, whose passion led her to open the Vimor Museum of Living Textiles, says, “Sustained effort has gone into nurturing the skill of our weaver-community over the years, and now we are skill-training the next generation. It is this kind of growth that can make them independent and see the industry becoming self-reliant.”
Her success with cotton and silk handloom weavers in Tamil Nadu made Pavithra wonder why the same could not be done for the weavers in Karnataka. “I started with what we call the puja sari. Through research and documentation and confirmation from weavers in Molkalmuru, a district in Chitradurga, we found the puja sari originated in Karnataka, though it is popularly believed to be from Tamil Nadu.”
Pavithra’s association with Molkalmuru started with her father. “He used to travel to Chitradurga and that is where I first saw this particular weave. Annadi Veerabhadrappa, a textile and handloom enthusiast, showed me an award-winning sari and put me to the task of bringing back the weave.”
After this, Pavithra worked with Khana weavers to create a sari. “Through the years, I have worked to revive Chadranchiki (tiny checks on an ilkal sari), Horakere Devarapura check saris and Huvina Hadagale’s khana saris.”