Jacobs’ post-pandemic runway: Parading puffers in patterns

In another unmistakable sign that New York is coming back to life, Marc Jacobs celebrated a long-awaited return to in-person fashion shows when he presented his fall collection Monday evening at the grand Fifth Avenue branch of the New York Public Library

NEW YORK -- Theaters are dusting off the cobwebs and coming to life, the streets of midtown Manhattan are bustling, Bruce Springsteen is back on Broadway. And on Monday, the fashion world gathered to join another New York fixture, designer Marc Jacobs, and celebrate a return to live runway shows. “Through the physicality of this shared experience, I hope to offer a moment of inspiration, curiosity, wonder and possibility,” Jacobs wrote in the program notes for his fall collection, an eye-popping parade of op-art-inspired puffers and glistening space-age sequins, held under the grand arches of the main branch of the New York Public Library. Jacobs, whose inventive shows usually close out New York Fashion Week with a jolt of creative energy, chose not to wait for the next edition, which returns in September; he decided to launch this, his first collection after skipping two seasons during the pandemic, in the heat of a Manhattan summer. On a sweltering evening, he gave fans and passers-by a treat: The show was simultaneously projected onto the facade of Bergdorf Goodman, the luxury department store about 15 blocks up Fifth Avenue, where the collection will be sold exclusively. The clothes themselves were an enticing mix of puffer jackers and coats in undulating stripes of black and white, some swishing along the floor like glamorous ballgowns on a ski slope — and huge, bright round sequins emblazoned on long dresses and skirts, sometimes with pants underneath. It felt like winter wonderland meets glitzy red carpet, with a refueling stop in another galaxy.