Bullet Bras and Black Leather

And more of what everyone is going to need next season, from Miu Miu, Saint Laurent and Hermès.

There was something strange about the suits at the Miu Miu show. At first glance, they looked polite enough: in chunky gray felt, with narrow little skirts and jackets with sloping shoulders. But what was going on with the darts? They looked more like … oversize folds. Making the breasts jut out like howitzers while the back tapered down to a narrow waist, with a fillip at the end.

And beneath the coats, poking through thin silk knits, or exposed by oversize sundresses slipping off the shoulders, were bullet bras.

Bullet bras? Really? That staple of 1950s sweater girls and Bond villainesses (the ones whose undergarments turned out to contain actual bullets)?

Sure, underwear has become something of a Miu Miu signature, as the various influencers wearing panties with their cardigans on the front row demonstrated. And sure, the elements in the show were almost stereotypically ladylike: giant brooches pinned on lapels, box bags hung neatly from the crook of an arm, cloche hats and faux fur stoles. But those bullet bras were, well — the point. They looked as if they might take your eye out if you got too close. You can bet money they will be coming soon to a TikTok video near you.

“All the girls were excited,” Miuccia Prada said after the show, referring to the models who were not all girls, and who happened to include the rapper Cortisa Star, and the actors Sarah Paulson and Laura Harrier. In fact, “they wanted them more pointy,” she said.