British Restaurants Are Battling a Staff Crisis, Worsened by Brexit

A shortage of workers is forcing restaurants to turn away eager customers and confront a bigger problem: How to make hospitality an industry where people want to work.

LONDON — In the wealthy central London enclave of Belgravia, where a two-bedroom apartment is advertised for 1.7 million pounds, or $2.4 million, and Maseratis and Bentleys line the streets, the battle for restaurant staff has become downright underhanded. The manager at Olivo, a Sardinian restaurant, recently kicked out a rival Sardinian restaurateur from the dining room. At a quiet table by the window, the man was trying to persuade a waitress to work at his restaurant instead. Olivo can’t afford to lose any more staff. Across Britain, there is a dearth of hospitality workers, and companies are getting increasingly desperate to fill vacancies. Until they can, restaurants are partially closing despite huge demand from customers who have saved money during the pandemic and are eager for a great meal out.