At Nobu Malibu, Dream Time With the Famous and Almost Famous

It’s a vibe, for sure, but the fish is pristine and the yuzu sparkles at the beachside outpost of Nobu Matsuhisa’s global culinary empire.

MALIBU, Calif. — Look, but don’t make it obvious. Is that Bella Hadid? Or, is that a person who’s worked extremely hard to make herself look like Bella Hadid? The dining room at Nobu Malibu spills outside, floating dreamily above the Pacific Ocean. It’s full of people of indeterminable ages with plumped, glowy skin and long, extra-thick eyelashes, wearing soft, unwrinkled fabrics and layers of gold chains. Some are regulars, power lunching; others celebrate special occasions (including the win of the reservation itself, still borderline impossible). But everyone’s playing some version of this game: Look! Is that …?