At London Fashion Week, brands cater to their unique type of freak and geek

More than ever, designers are stepping up in new ways to engage with — and uplift — their communities beyond clothes.

This season at London Fashion Week, designers made it clear that a runway is no longer the only way to go about staging a show. For every high-octane catwalk across the five-day schedule, there were a number of relaxed presentations and informal gatherings as some brands looked to save money, slow things down and connect with their community beyond the rigidity of assigned seating.

In her second season as CEO of the British Fashion Council, Laura Weir summarized it best during her opening speech on Friday morning. “This week is not only a schedule of shows,” she said, reeling off the numerous presentations, dinners and events taking place. London’s strength, she continued, is in the fact that the city doesn’t “follow a formula” but sets “the cultural temperature.”

Indeed, long viewed as the scrappy sibling on the fashion calendar, London’s brands are unlike the more commercially viable labels at New York Fashion Week, which earlier this month demonstrated their prowess in knowing how to sell clothes, often with wider appeal. That’s not to say that London designers don’t know how to sell, but their approach is more targeted.

Whether it’s Chet Lo’s recreation of a Hong Kong night market, Chopova Lowena’s folklore mashup for quirky girls, or Tolu Coker’s exploration of diasporic black identity, London’s indie brands tend to spotlight and cater to the underserved – from LGBTQ+ community individuals to people of color. In doing so, several designers have amassed a devoted following. And it was these communities that they sought to engage – not only through the clothes, but this time through moments that encouraged guests to mingle with the designers as well as each other.