As the Power Shifts, D.C. Restaurateurs Are Nervous, and Diplomatic
The New York Times
With Trump back in town, owners are wondering how the dining scene will shape up.
Immigrant Food is in a fascinating place, both literally and figuratively.
Just steps from the White House, which will soon be occupied by a new president with ardent ideas about immigration, the restaurant illustrates the influence of global cuisine, showcasing how immigrants have shaped the American palate.
Téa Ivanovic, the chief operating officer and co-founder, sees the situation as an opportunity, though.
“We’ve had people with MAGA hats, and staffers from both administrations in here and it’s been fine,” she said. “We’ve had conversations with them and I would ask, ‘How do you feel about coming to a restaurant called Immigrant Food?’ The responses are always the same: “They say, ‘Oh, well, we don’t hate immigrants, just the illegal ones.’”
Even so, she was adamant that Immigrant Food is “not a political space,” but instead a business using “gastro-advocacy” to support people who come to this country seeking a better life, “which is the American story,” she said. She plans to continue that approach undaunted as the new administration comes into power.
One thing that will undoubtedly change, though? The turmeric rice and coconut curry chicken, inspired by Kamala Harris’s cultural background, will now be called the Heritage Bowl.
