10 New York Cabernet Francs to Find Right Now
The New York Times
Superb, singular wines are made from the grape in both the Finger Lakes and Long Island. These regions make a lot of other great wines, too.
I’ve always been suspicious of the “signature grape” theory, the idea that each wine area should call to mind a particular grape, as Argentina does malbec. It’s always smacked more of marketing than of common sense. While simplicity is good for selling things, it doesn’t necessarily benefit consumers or the wine.
But sometimes years of experience demonstrate that certain grapes are far and away better matches for a particular terroir than other varieties. It’s difficult to deny the evidence.
In many historical wine regions, these signature grapes have been codified under appellation rules: red Burgundy must be made of pinot noir, Chablis of chardonnay, Hermitage of syrah, Barolo of nebbiolo and so on.
These all have the force of history behind them and make logical sense. But not so many years ago, Chile, looking at the success of Argentina with malbec, tried to create its own signature grape, carmenère. Few bought the idea or the wine. Not only was the marketing impetus too transparent, but the evidence of excellent Chilean wine made from a host of other grapes was difficult to ignore.
All this brings me to the question of New York State cabernet franc. Is it the state’s signature grape? Some people would like to think so. There’s no doubt that New York makes terrific cabernet franc wines. On a recent foray through New York shops, I found these 10 bottles, six from the Finger Lakes, four from Long Island, that I recommend enthusiastically.
But signature grape? Is it really necessary to be so declarative? The Finger Lakes makes possibly the best American rieslings. I’ve also had superb pinot noirs and chardonnays. Why not simply say, the Finger Lakes is a great place to make wine. Its potential has only begun to be explored.
