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Fancy seafood brasseries are having a moment in NYC

It’s been swimming under the media radar — but a great seafood-brasserie wave is swamping NYC. Opened late last year, Oceans, a beautiful, David Rockwell-designed restaurant at 233 Park Ave. S. at 19th St., is one of the toughest reservations in town right now. It’s also the latest in the school of jumbo, something-for-everyone piscene palaces that are multiplying like guppies. Long-time favorites Oceana and Docks now share the Manhattan waters with Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s marvelous Fulton at Pier 17, big chain Ocean Prime, Meatpacking “scene” spot Catch and the Moxy Hotel’s unfortunately named but quite good Legasea. Then there are the proliferating restaurants that identify as Greek, but where most people go for a ...