United States

Inside City Winery’s crushing relocation: ‘It’s unfortunate, but it’s life’

David Lecomte is the only professional winemaker currently crushing grapes commercially in Manhattan. And this summer was a particularly moving experience for the 47-year-old Frenchman. That’s because his place of business, City Winery on Varick Street in lower Manhattan, had to move across town to a site on a pier overlooking the Hudson River. And Lecomte, who trained in Europe for his profession, was in charge of relocating to the new site 14 huge aluminum tanks and 350 wooden barrels filled with anywhere from 210 to 2,000 gallons of wine. The move wasn’t voluntary. “It’s unfortunate, but it’s life,” said Lecomte as we sat down to talk a day before the move had to be made. “There’s nothing we can do, so we have to d ...