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Why the Four Seasons Restaurant revival never stood a chance

Few New Yorkers under the age of fifty will care much when The Four Seasons restaurant serves its last meal — a less-than-power lunch — on Tuesday. The plodding revival two blocks south of the once-great institution’s original home in the Seagram Building never had a chance. Its formal style and cuisine were long past their expiration date and its clientele had since moved on. A festering sexual-harassment scandal lent the killing stroke. But the demise of its name should sadden anyone who cares about New York City. The original Four Seasons lasted nearly sixty years until Seagram landlord Aby Rosen pulled its plug-in 2016, but its glory years were from the late 1970s through the 1990s. The place was at its best when the crumbl ...
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